Bartolo Mascarello, Barolo 2019
Bartolo Mascarello is the name that is at the top of the list when people talk about the traditionalists in Barolo. Bartolo was always against all the new fads---the new oak, the shorter maceration, the crus. Even though he has vineyards in the top crus of Barolo, he makes only Barolo, using fruit from all his holdings. His holdings are really top notch: Cannubi, San Lorenzo, Rue, and Rocche. It is this high-quality fruit that makes the wines as notorious as they are.
Today Bartolo Mascarello is run by Maria Teresa Mascarello. She worked alongside her father for decades before he died, which was the only way he’d let her fully take over. At the time she’d been the actual winemaker for years, but it was still his project. Working alongside her dad for such a long time, Maria learned to do things with his sensibilities and her voice. The wines have stayed consistent and have perhaps become even better in her hands.
2019 was a very classic year in Barolo, and it is one that will age for the long haul--20-30 years, if you can wait. If you cannot wait (who can?) then make sure to decant it for at least an hour before you sit down to enjoy it.
